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There is no ratchet/pall system. The break system is by way of tightening the knobs on the sides along with a kind of ratchet and gear. You tilt the gear into the ratchet. If you forget to push the gear into the ratchet, the beam will not keep tension and will unwind on you when you go to weave or warp the loom.
The shed blocks are very thin. If you are slighly off center in your warping, the heddle will keep slipping off the block.
There are no beam sticks. You'll have to add these yourself. Make 4 large loops of string/chording all the same size. Staple one end to the beams, 2 to a beam. Then by means of a larks head knot, use dowels as beam sticks.
There's no knob for winding/turning the warp beams. You have to grab the beam to turn it. If you're warped the entire width of the loom...well, this creates a problem. You have to grab not just the beam but the warp threads too. Not ideal.
When you turn the beams during warping, the end knobs also turn, tightening the beam. You have to stop and loosen the knobs. Not convenient.
There are teeth on the beams. These get in the way constantly. I ripped them out of my loom after using it a couple of times. If you plan on doing tapestry weaving, then leave them in, but otherwise, do yourself a favor and rip them out. I used pliers.
The loom will continually pop out of the legs of the stand when you pull up on the reed. In addition, whenever that happens, the legs will fall to the floor!
You'll have to lash the loom down to the stand to keep this from happening. Even if your loom doesn't pop out of the stand like mine did, if you take the loom out of the stand, the legs will fall to the floor. You'll have to lash the legs together, one way or another, to keep that from happening.
If I had to do it all again, I would have saved up a little more money and purchased a different loom, something made in the USA (Schacht comes to mind).